DIY: No Slip Book Marks

What you'll need:

Ribbon

Hair elastic

Button scissors

Tape measure

Sewing pin

Thread

Step 1: Measure how long you want your bookmark to be. I cut mine at 17 inches and the finished piece is 14 1/2 inches from sewn area to the button. This size is good for medium to regular sized books, but for large books or small paperbacks you will want to measure for their specific size.

Step 2: Fold one edge of ribbon down to prepare for sewing. If your ribbon tends to fray, you may want to fold it twice.

Step 3: Add hair elastic, fold over and pin.

Step 4: Sew a straight or zig zag stitch along the ribbon fold. If you don’t have a sewing machine, you can sew this by hand. If you do sew it by hand, make sure to stitch the area twice to reinforce it.

Step 5: Measure from the folded, sewn area to where you want your button and sew button in place. Optional - Gather fabric behind button and hand-stitch it together for a finished look. The solid brown one attached to a book below shows it without a gather. Also, if your ribbon tends to fray, you will want to finish the edges of the ribbon.

And then your done!!

DIY: Beaded Leather Bracelet

What you'll need:


Leather or suede cording
Needle (need to be a strong needle)
Matching thread
Scissors
Beads
Thimble


Step 1: Fold a piece of leather in half so you have a rounded end piece like below and two sides that run parallel. Cut the length of leather you want. You should cut enough so your bracelet will comfortably wrap around your wrist at least twice.




Note: I could not find a thimble, so I used the cap to this lip moisturizer to help push the needle through the leather. Hey, don’t knock it…it worked




Step 2: Push your needle and thread through one side of the leather so your thread is coming out in the middle of the folded leather. Add a bead, then needle through the other side of the leather and continue stitching back and forth and repeating with the add of a bead all the way down the middle of the leather until you reach about an 1.5 inches before the end.

The pattern I used here was 10 blue beads, then 1 gold bead, repeat.

Step 3: (Optional) I added a little Opal charm to the end of my leather, before tying the knot to secure it, just to add a little something.


Step 4: Wrap your finished beaded leather around your wrist and tie a knot around the folded end to secure it in place. And that’s it…you now have a cute new bracelet.

DIY: Big Striped Everyday Bag

This is what you'll need:


A big striped polo shirt

A belt









Step 1: I sort of “eye-balled” everything based on the size of the shirt I started with and how big I wanted the finished bag to be. So I started with a folded in half piece of tissue paper and I drew out half of the bag with the strap bases and all. Then, with the paper still folded in half, I cut the design out. FYI…by folding your design in half and cutting it that way, you will ensure your finished piece is the same size on both sides.




Step 2: Place your pattern on your shirt wherever fits best for the pattern you want, but also leaving enough material to cut for the bottom and sides.




Step 3: Cut out your bottom and sides. I didn’t have enough space to cut one long piece for this so I had to cut 3 separate pieces. Note: I was not at all concerned about matching the strips from piece to piece in either direction. In fact, I think it kind of looks cool to have them mismatched.




Step 4: Because the material of the shirt was not that heavy, I wanted to add some strength to the bag so I cut out identical pieces to the pattern I just cut from the shirt with some canvas material I had left over from another project. The only difference, I made the bottom and sides one long piece because I did have enough room with this material.




Step 5: Sew the bottom and sides to your bag base. And sew the canvas bottom, sides and base as well.




Step 6: Turn the t-shirt material inside out and the canvas material right side in and pin and sew them together leaving the straps and one side un-sewn. I also sewed in a piece of elastic at the top of both side panels to give the bag a bit of a gathered look at the sides. Pull the right side of bag through your un-sewn opening. Then hand stitch the opening closed.




Step 7: I used a belt and some hardware from a falling apart bag to connect my straps. Since I used one strap instead of two, it was a bit challenging to make it look clean, so I’d recommend going with two traps if you’re going to try this.




And then you'r done and you have an amazing bag that you can tell people you made!

DIY: Shamballa Inspired Bracelets

Here's what you'll need:


Some hemp cording or some strong yarn
Beads
Beading Cement
Tape measure
Scissors



1. Determine what size bracelet you want. In the pictures here I’ve made a single bracelet, a double wrap and a triple wrap. For the single bracelet, measure your wrist to determine how long your base strand needs to be. Mine is 7″, however you need to add a bit extra for your first knot and room to tie your last knot. So I cut my base cord at 10 inches. For a double wrap I would cut at 17 inches and a triple wrap I would cut at 24 inches. Remember, your sizes may be different depending on the size of your wrist. So be sure to measure.




2. Now that you know the size of your base cord where you’ll be placing your beads, you need to cut the cord that will wrap around and in between the beads. Whatever size your base cord is, the outer cords will be triple the length. So fold your cord in half so one end has a loop and measure out triple of whatever your base is. For example, my single base is 10 inches, so the folded outer cord will be 30 inches in length, (or 60 inches unfolded). I know that seems like a lot, but you need enough to make all the knots between your beads. You may end up with a bunch left over to cut off, but better more to cut off than running out of cord in the middle of your bracelet, right?




3. Take your single bead base cord and tie a knot at the base of the double outer cords like shown above.




4. Then tie a knot with the whole thing around itself. Cut off any excess cord as shown below.




5. Add a little cement to your knot to make sure everything will stay in place. Let dry.




6. Working on a flat surface, start with the end loop closest to you and place the excess cords moving away from you. Add your bead, then take your right cord and move it under the middle base cord and take your left cord and move it over the middle cord like shown below.




7. Take the end of the right cord and push it through and under the left loop as shown below.




8. Take the end of the left cord and bring it under and through the right loop as shown below.




9. Pull both right and left cords tight to bring in your knot.




10. For the next knot you’re going to reverse the process so it will be right cord over middle, left cord under. Right cord under and through left loop and left cord over and through right loop. It all sounds a bit complicated until you actually do it. Then you’ll see how easy it is and you’ll be doing it in your sleep.




11. Now here’s where you can either add a bead or add one more knot before you add a bead, depending on how many knots you want to appear between your beads. If you choose to make one more knot, reverse the process again so you’re back to left cord over middle and right cord under and repeat process. Once you have the number of knots you want, add a your next bead and repeat the process. Continue knotting and adding beads until you’re at the length you want.




12. Once you come to the length you want, cut off any excess and tie a knot with a little excess remaining. Your knot needs to be small enough to fit through your original loop to clasp your bracelet around your wrist, but big enough that it won’t slip out.




And then your done and now that you have the concept on how to make these you can make so meany different kinds.

DIY: Statement Necklace

Materials that you'll need:

Upholstery trim
Strand of pearls or beads
Suspender Clips
Ribbon
Needle and thread

1. Lay the strand of pearls (or beads) on top of upholstery trim and then use you needle and thread to secure the pearls with small stitches.

2. Attach suspender clip onto both ends of your necklace.

3. Loop ribbing through suspender opening

4. Finish off necklace with a big statement bow knot.

Upholstery trim, pearls, suspender clips, and ribbon are all available at M&J Trimming.

DIY: Peach Aventurine Ring

This is what you'll need:

18 gauge artistic dead soft wire 1ft
1 bead (11x6 mm)
A ring mandrel
Chain nose pliers
Weir cutter

1. Cut a piece of 18 gauge round dead soft wire 1ft (30cm) long.

2. Place a 11x6 mm pillow bead in the middle of the wire. Then bend the weir down as shown.

3. Place the weir with the bead around the ring mandrel at 1/2 size larger then what you need. Wrap the weir around the ring, until there is one weir on both sides of the ring.

4. Wrap each weir twice around the bead, one side at a time then alternate sides. Then your weirs will end up in opposite directions.

5. Use the weir end to wrap around the shank. Make 2-3 wraps. Cut the weir. Tack the weir ends with chain nose pliers so then are not poking.

6. Repeat step 5 with the other weir end.

And then your done!!!

(P.S. I found another bead at esty or you can get them at a bead store like hobby lobby, Micheal, or esty. Search for a peach aventurine cushion cut on esty.)

DIY: Crepe Paper Flowers

Single-Petal Method

The single-petal method, as its name implies, is used to build a flower petal by petal. Each petal is individually shaped and pleated before being attached to the stem. To construct one of these flowers, first make the appropriate stamen from crepe paper and floral wire and cut the necessary number of petals and leaves from crepe paper. Then shape the petals, and attach them to the stamen with floral tape.

Tulip

Use 6 petals (get the template below), a fringe stamen, and two elongated leaves. Shape petals to cup inward slightly; roll three of them at the widest point to curve strongly inward. Pleat base of each petal; pinch folds in place. Attach heavily cupped petals to stamen; add remaining petals, overlapping slightly. Attach leaves low on stem.

Get the Tulip Petal Template

Peony

Use 35 petals (get the template below) and a button stamen. Shape petals to cup inward slightly. Pleat base of each petal; pinch folds in place. Attach to stamen, positioning innermost petals low, with midpoints at stamen's head; raise each subsequent ring of petals slightly. Curl tips of petals inward.

Get the Peony Petal Template

Lily

Use 5 petals (get the template below), a pistil stamen, and an elongated leaf. Fold petals in half lengthwise, crease, then unfold. Shape petals to cup outward at widest point. Attach to stamen in an evenly spaced ring, leaving the pistils inside the stamen long.

Get the Lily Petal Template

Rose

Use five small and seven large petals (get the template below) and a bud stamen. Cup petals at a point just below middle; curl upper edge outward. Pleat base of each petal; pinch folds in place. Attach petals to stamen, first positioning small petals lower on stamen and tightly curled around it; raise each subsequent ring of petals slightly, overlapping petals.

Get the Rose Petal Template

Shaping Petals

Petals are shaped first, then attached to the stamen individually. To cup a petal, pinch it between thumbs and forefingers, thumbs near center, fingers at edges. Gently pull thumbs outward to stretch the crepe paper, opening up ridges; this will cup it inward into a concave shape. To curl a petal, roll it around a pencil. To pleat the base of a petal, pinch sides together; press folds in place.

Attaching Petals

To attach petals to stamen, stretch floral tape slightly, then wrap it twice around stamen. Add petals, wrapping tape across base of each as you add it. Once petals are added, wrap tape around twice more, then wrap down along stem to anchor and to attach leaves.

Continuous-Petal Method

For this technique, a strip of paper cut with a fringe of petals is attached to a stamen, and petals are shaped afterward, sometimes several at a time. First make the stamen and cut petal strips and leaves. Then firmly wrap the strip of petals around the stamen or around itself; secure with floral tape. Practice so the strip doesn't slip, or cut it into shorter lengths and attach in stages. Then attach leaves and shape petals.

Spidermum

Use 36 inches of petals (get the template below), a fringe stamen and one or more teardrop leaves. Attach end of strip to stamen; wind it around, gradually bringing strip higher on stamen. Starting near their bases, curl inner layers of petals tightly inward, several at once. Curl outer petals less tightly.

Get the Spidermum Petal Template

Carnation

Use three strips of petals (get the template below), each 12 inches. Tightly pleat bottom edge of one strip, then wrap it firmly around itself, keeping bottom edge aligned. Secure with floral tape. Repeat with other strips. Tape bases of rolled strips to the end of a plain floral wire and to one another, wrapping tape down stem. Pull petals outward to create a dome.

Get the Carnation Petal Template

Dahlia

Use 32 inches of petals (get the template below) and a fringe stamen. Attach strip, placing end a little low on stamen and pleating bottom edge as you wrap, gradually bringing strip higher on stamen. Cup each petal inward, then curl inward; pinch each tip to give it a crease.

Get the Dahlia Petal Template

Daisy

Use 18 inches of petals (get the template below), a button stamen, and two notched leaves. Attach strip to stamen, pleating bottom edge to prevent bunching, and keeping it aligned as you wrap. Cup each petal outward, then curl petals outward, shaping several at a time. Attach leaves near base of stem with tape.

Get the Daisy Petal Template

Attaching Petals

To attach a strip of petals, place one end against the stamen; wrap strip around it. The base of the strip may need to be pleated as you go; pinch it together occasionally, and press folds in place. Once strip is wrapped, stretch floral tape slightly, then wrap it snugly around the base of the flower several times, touching both paper and stamen; wind tape down the stem to anchor and to attach leaves.

Shaping Petals

To cup a petal, pinch it between thumbs and forefingers, thumbs near edges and fingers at center. Gently pull thumbs outward to stretch the crepe paper, opening up the ridges; this will cup it outward into a convex shape. To curl petals, slide them between your thumb and a pencil; petal will curl toward pencil.

Making Stamens

Cut 18-gauge cloth-wrapped floral wire to desired length: 12 inches is a good starting length for a bouquet; 6 works well for a boutonniere.

Clockwise from top left:
Button: Cut 11/2-inch square of crepe paper. Place thumbnail-size wad of cotton in center; push end of wire into cotton. Wrap paper around cotton; twist ends around wire. Secure with floral tape. (Daisy)

Bud: Cut a 3-inch square of crepe paper; fold it into a triangle. Bring far tips in toward center bottom point, slightly overlapping. Hold the tips together; twist. Secure tips to end of wire with floral tape. (Rose)

Pistil: Cut a 1/2-by-6-inch strip of off-white crepe paper. Twist it tightly between your fingers, and tie a knot at one end. Cut three 1/8-by-4-inch strips of heavy red crepe paper; bend each at one end. Attach all strips, off-white in center, to end of wire with floral tape. (Lily)

Floret: Cut 6-by-2-inch strip of crepe paper; fold every 1/2 inch. Cut petals as shown. Wrap around end of wire. Secure with floral tape.

Triple Button: Cut three 1-inch squares of crepe paper; make three wads of cotton the size of a pinky nail. Attach to wire as for #1. Place buttons together, heads staggered; tape together with floral tape.

Fringe: Cut a 6-by-2-inch piece of crepe paper. Make cuts into one long side, about every 1/8 inch, to create a fringe. Roll paper tightly around end of wire. Secure with floral tape. (Tulip, spider mum, dahlia)

Shaping and Attaching Leaves

Clockwise from top left:
Notched: Position these leaves down the stem a few inches below the base of the flower head, and secure with floral tape. (Daisy)

Teardrop: Cut a few 1/4-inch-deep slits into the sides of each leaf at the tip, spacing them approximately 1/8 inch apart as shown on the template. Give the leaf a slight inward cup, following the shaping technique given for single petals seen here. (Rose)

Standard: Pleat the base of each of these leaves before attaching them. Add a short stem made of 18-gauge cloth-wrapped floral wire in one of two ways: Either attach the leaf to the wire by wrapping floral tape around the base overlapping wire and slightly cupping leaf around stem, or glue wire up center back of leaf with craft glue. (Spider mum)

Grassy: Start with a 2-by-5-inch strip of crepe paper. Fold accordion-style, and place template on top; create a spiky fringe by cutting narrow Vs into one long side of the strip following the template. To attach, place one end of strip on flower head at the base of the flower head, and wrap it around the stamen; secure with floral tape.

Elongated: Fold each leaf in half lengthwise, then pleat its base by pinching. Attach these leaves on the stem a few inches below the base of the flower by wrapping floral tape around the base. (Tulip, lily)

Get the Templates

Garland

Use continuous-petal flowers made without a stamen (roll the strip tightly around itself, and secure with floral tape). Thread an upholstery needle with double-sided satin ribbon; run needle up through centers of flowers. Leave four inches between flowers.

Seating-Card Holders

Make the blossoms at right using five to ten continuous petals cut into rounded teardrops; use an 11-inch length of floral wire for the stamen of your choice. About 4 inches down from flower, twist two tiny circles in wire with round-tipped needlenose pliers; these circles grip the card. About 1 inch below that, bend wire out 90 degrees, then into a circular base. To display, cut 2-inch slits into felt draped over table; slip one side of each base into a slit.